My week long love affair with SCOTLAND

Scotland …. It was unexpected, rough, temperamental, exhilarating, wild, magical and free. The land of men in skirts, diverse natural landscapes, 5 seasons in one day,  bagpipes, haggis, enough interesting history to satiate any historian, and accents you either can’t understand or fall in love with. Being a teacher I have AMAZING holidays, and teaching in London it feels like I’m always on holidays for a week here or there. Last minute plans needed to be made and Scotland won this weeks adventuring. I got even more excited about my trip the day after I booked it….I met a Scottish-man whom I became slightly infatuated by…his accent, love for the outdoors, sense of humour and athleticism at a ping pong table made me a little weak at the knees. Sadly my love affair was not with him! During our brief encounter I mentioned I was off on a trip to his homeland and proceeded to wrangle as much ‘useful’ information as I could get about places to go and things to do. His advice sent me further than initially planned and it ended up being one of the most diverse weeks of travel to that date.

Considering I booked only a week in advance I managed £50 return flights with Ryanair and a day before car rental booking through Hertz for 7 days at £80.

View of Edinburgh Castle from Castle Rock Hostel

Arriving into Edinburgh airport I went to the Information centre (the ladies were lovely) and booked a return bus ticket using Airlink for £7 dropping me right in the heart of Edinburgh city and a short walk to my Hostel. One of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in; Castle Rock Hostel is located at the bottom of Edinburgh castle…the view from my bedroom window went a little like this…..

I stayed in a 10 bed mixed dorm on the top bunk with NO snorers. Each room in the hostel is themed and my Scottish movies themed room suited me perfectly. I love wandering the streets to get a feel for any new city but brought along a small map from the hostel to help find my way back.

My wanderings led me along the Royal Mile where I stopped in on St Giles Cathedral to admire the stained glass windows and sit in on choir practice that was taking place.

St Giles Cathedral

I continued up to Carlton Hill overlooking Arthur’s Seat. From up there you can enter an observatory, climb onto the base of the Greek style pillars known as the National Monument…be warned you need to be at least 7 foot tall to actually climb onto them or have a buddy….I managed with an old faithful run and leap with a scramble up method.  I decided to sit and take advantage of the sunshine and stayed to watch the sun start to set as I read my book overlooking the city and last people wandering down from Arthur’s Seat.

Night number one I picked up random conversations in the hostel and an hour later I found myself along with about 35 others on a free pub crawl around Edinburgh city centre. Stop #1 was Frankensteins; with its funky cocktails and a full stage like production of its name sake….suddenly there was a Frankenstein being created and coming to life above our heads. Later I took a night stroll of the streets of Edinburgh walking past the closed up Elephant Cafe where J.K. Rowlings sat down to write some of the Happy Potter series.

I rose early enough to take a free morning walking tour around the city centre. My guide was a fellow Australian with a loud personality and a passion for the theatrics. I learnt: buildings aren’t always as they appear from the outside, shiny statues don’t always bring you good luck and fortune, and the way a horses legs are visible with a rider atop is how the man atop came to his death. I saw graveyards full of Harry Potter character such as Tom Riddles…Voldermort finally in the grave! I also saw the statue of the famous dog of Edinburgh; Greyfriars Bobby, known for his loyalty as he stayed by his owners grave for 14 years until he met his own final sleep.

After the tour I enjoyed my packed lunch overlooking the historical execution square in Grassmarket then found a balcony to overlook the colourful buildings of Victoria Street.

 That afternoon I took my time to see as many nooks and crannies of Edinburgh Castle as I could in the four hours before it closed. Useful tip….Discounted tickets are available if you buy multi-day passes, they work out a lot cheaper if you are going to a few castles or historical sites around Scotland. The signs around the castle are great to read but I grabbed an Audio tour to get all the extra goodies and keep me engaged.

My second night in Edinburgh I thought my hostel was about to be ripped from the ground and carried away like Dorothy and Toto to the land of Oz! The strong wind shook and rattled the wooden window panels throughout the night like one hundred 2 year olds chucking a tantrum altogether! Waking the next morning it was time to use my return bus ticket to the airport and pick up my little four wheeled beast and hit the road. It needs to be noted that I used my phone as a GPS in Scotland, but the road signage everywhere is AMAZING!

Here we go…5 days on the open road with no plans….

Day number one I started with another of many castles; Stirling Castle. It was here I find out about the discounted ticket deal.

View from one of the castles peepholes

Afterwards I took stop number one of my Outlander series scavenger hunt. Doune Castle was used for the filming of the castle Leoch of the Mackenzie Clan. In its current real life state it is much older and worn than they have made it appear on television, it was interesting to see the small exhibition with now and ‘TV show’ images for comparison.

Just outside of Fort William I stayed overnight in Glen Nevis hostel at the foot of Ben Nevis. My room looked out at the Glen Nevis range and along the river which had carved mushrooms along the waterside.

Some of the many views I had along my drive

The following day it was raining so I had a late start and instead of hiking mountains today in the rain; I began my drive towards Skye via Glenfinnen.  I stopped at the towns visitors centre opposite Loch Shiel and took a short walk from the car park along a gravel pathway to find the Glenfinnen Viaduct. The Viaduct was used as a filming location for the 2nd Harry potter film when Harry and Ron are driving the blue flying car to catch up with the Hogwarts express.

You can walk right up to, under and almost along the side of the top of the viaduct trainline. I really wanted the do the Jacobite railway from Fort William to Mallaig that runs this length of track but I was a month too early.  Back on Loch Shiel the memorial monument to the Jacobites can be found where Bonny Prince Charlie first called the Jacobites to arms.

I continued towards the Isle of Skye via Calmac ferries at Mallaig, and for myself and the car it was £29.05. I only got a one way because I wanted to drive back towards Inverness over the bridge located on the other side of the Isle.

The weather on Skye was a lot more extreme than I imagined. Most days; experiencing 5 weather types within 5 minutes being completely normal…..sunshine, rain, fog, wind, hail, and snow all made appearances.

For three nights I stayed in a Backpackers Hostel central to Portree main village, located right down on an inlet bay with boats chilling in the muds of low tide. You can pretty much walk the town in five minutes so I was staying in prime real estate.

Portree Harbour

For my first full day I went on a solo mission out to find the Fairy Pools. The drive out was beautiful and I loved the freedom to stop and get out for photography whenever the roadside allowed. The roads to get to the pools is fairly well marked but once you get to the car park you are on your own to cross the paddock and walk up to the pools.

I walked a little further than the main pools wondering if I would come across more but turned back as I watched the surrounds mountain-line become darker and darker over the fairy pools, and the storm whirl in at full charge. I made it back to the car 5 minutes after it hit and I sat in the car for about 15 minutes thawing out before I decided it would be safe to leave the car park in the thrashing wind and rain downpour. As I was leaving the car park dripping wet hitch hikers were thumbing it so I popped the boot and crammed them in too. For the rest of the day imagine rain, shotty reception in the hostel, and a lonely Australian girl sitting with her IPad and notepad with a pint of beer at the local pub.

My second full day on Skye I found companions from the Hostel to venture out into the wilderness with. A small island girl from Canada on a month long UK trip, and Florence; an English and Dutch teacher from Belgium. The weather was showing no sign of clearing from cold, windy, foggy rain but with time restraints we pushed on …. An hour of walking uphill with nothing but the occasional outline to head towards we made it up to the base of the Old Man of Storr. The walk up had one main path for the most part, but closer to the top the number of smaller paths to choose from meant we were mostly guessing; at one stage making a short scramble up some slippery shale. Trying to get this photograph at the highest point we reached I think all three of us almost blew off the side of the ridge-line and into the fog.

Kilt Rock was stop number two.  It’s a sight I had seen pop up on Pinterest for a long time and finally seeing it you know why it is so popular.  The fall was smaller than I imagined but non the less impressive and due to the rain had an extra kick to it. The surrounding landscape along the coast is breathtaking, with its sheer drops and multitude of colours accentuated by the weather.

Stop three: The Fairy Glen was HARD to find with zero sign postage. When we actually arrived we didn’t even know we were there. It wasnt until we investigated a small track leading up behind some trees that we found it.  Hiking up and over the small hill we found ourselves looking out over the Glen.  It’s hard to put into words what you see in the Glen and the photos certainly don’t do it justice, but in one word I would say it was MAGICAL.  Rock spirals leading to a mound of coins and treasure left behind.  There were many waterfalls and a path leading to a rock fortress lookout where you could search for fairies, nymphs or any other magical creature you think you could spot in such a magical place.

The drive around Skye does not take more than a few hours but there are so many beautiful and magical places to see, you could spend a lot more than the two and a half days I had.  One last beauty I wanted to share from the Isle was The Quiraing. The drive along this stretch of the Isle is narrow,  windy, and the view on both sides is packed full of weird and wonderful rock formations.

My time was running low and I still had a long way to go, so from Skye I drove the scenic route over Skye bridge towards Inverness. I had much planned for my time here and it needed to jump right on in.  Back on track now with my Outlander tour, I went to visit Clava Carne first.  These stone circles and Carnes holds as much mystery as many others around the world but this specific one was used as the inspiration and filming for when Clare goes back in time.

Just around the corner from the Carne you can find the historic battleground and museum of Culloden.  In April 1746, Culloden moor saw clans from around the Highlands join together with Jacobite supporters for Scotland and Prince Charles to fight and ultimately lose against the Duke of Cumberland and his troops.  The results from this loss led to many devastating changes for Highland society.  Chiefs were deprived of their legal powers and clansmen of their weapons.  Most notable was the ban of kilts and tartan; a highlanders outer identity.

Urquhart Castle

My last stop for the day was a visit to Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness.  Walking down to the castle I could hear bagpipes and upon entry I had the honor of witnessing a wedding taking place.  Once one of the largest castles in Scotland, its ruins still leave an impression of grandeur.  Up in what is left of the tower I took some time to scan the waters for Nessie the monster, but alas she still evades me.

A sort half hour drive from Inverness is Fort George. As I reached the end of my driving directions I couldn’t see anything but a rolling grassy hill with glimpses of water around. The fort is almost invisible until you are entering the car park.  Perfectly camouflaged, this Fort is known as one of the mightiest artillery fortifications in Britain. I spent the afternoon wandering the ins and outs of the accessible sections and felt all alone apart from the occasional soldier walking by and the mass of seagulls soaring and squawking around.

My last afternoon and night I wandered the town of Inverness, heading into the Victorian Market, walked along the river looking yup at the Castle and finally into the Waterfront for dinner and a pint.  Jacobite Chicken with haggis …I’d never had haggis and it was the anniversary of the Battle of Culloden; so I felt the name deserved at least a try.  I stayed for a few drinks when a live Scottish band started playing.

My last day in Scotland started in Inverness with my last lavish breakfast from Shella my B&B owner of Invernevis B&B, a 10 minute walk into the centre of Inverness to print my boarding pass at the information centre, then I was on the road again. My little wee beastie and I needed to get to Edinburgh again to part ways, her to stay at the airport to await her next and not as cool driver, and me to fly back to London for work. The drive back was fairly uneventful but I took the route through Cairnwood National Park via Aviemore. In Aviemore I took a drive up to the ski hill to look out through the National Park. It is a beautiful view in its own right with the different layers of colour and the large moor below, but I had to try and not compare it to the landscapes from the rest of the trip. There was actually still snow on the hills and skiers and snowboarders were busy squeezing in their last turns for the season.

After a fantastic week of history and sightseeing, I left my love affair with Scotland for the loud sights and sounds of my home in London.

“Paris is always a good idea…….” Rounding up the Bowden Family vacation

The last installment to the Bowden Euro Family Trip of 2014/15 is for Paris, and is a good 7 months late sorry.  We arrived into Paris on the 6th of January 2015 for a memorable 4 days.

I had been to Paris once before when I was about 14 with my family. The experience lasted just over 48 hours and I walked away feeling anything but warm feelings for the city. We were turned away from restaurants, rained on, I found spiders in my bed, and we found ourselves in what at the time felt like the slums. In hindsight, I look back and see some of the beauty we experienced; the Eiffel Tower from its highest point, seeing the glory of the inside of Notre Dame, and hanging with the Louvre Pyramids. So when it was suggested that we return to Paris during this trip, I got excited to go back and reassess my opinion of the city. At 27, I have since experienced many cities across the world, and I wanted to return to the city that so many people rave about…..to see what all the fuss was about.

When the ‘Thames’ fast train pulled into Paris Nord, I had the address and directions to our accommodation and felt confident that I could navigate us there with Google Map screeenshots in hand. After some back and forth and my very minimal grasp of the French language we ended up on the Metro, bags in hand, heading for our new digs.

We booked accommodation at “Richelieu Apartments” conveniently located right around the corner from the Louvre Pyramids.  We were met at the door by an employee of the rental company and as we walked the steps I noticed the “rustic charm” of the stairwell that had me flashing back to the last Paris trip… When we got into the apartment I was pleasantly relieved to find a spacious and clean apartment. A newly touched up property, with a few glitches in organization. On the plus side we had the location, TV and internet, the beds were clean and the kitchen had tea bags and a kettle. On the other hand our towels were still wet in the dryer, we didn’t have enough cups, and the the toilet roll holder fell off the wall scaring me half to death.  Falling off the walls became the theme … with the curtain rods and the bathroom door quickly following suit.

To settle in we had a wander around the local area to collect some cliche French cuisine for dinner; cheese, meats, baguettes, crackers, and a few bottles of wine.  

During the night Meaghs became very ill and spent the whole next day throwing her guts up and feeling nauseous.  This was the 7th of January 2015 – the day that three men entered the Charlie Hebdo Satirical Magazine premises and killed 12 people while seriously injuring 11 others. In this disgraceful act of terrorism, lives were lost for the expression of public freedom to voice and press. That night held mass protests and gatherings throughout Europe in honour of the lives lost and the fight to protect and stand up for the rights of free speech and press. The simple black poster with the white written “Je Suis Charlie” and “Nous Somme Charlie” quickly hit the streets and social media in support of everyones rights to free speech and media rights.

Over the following two days a Jewish Kosher Supermarket was taken over in a hostage crisis ending in yet more deaths, of both civilians and the gunmans. There was also a policewoman shot in Montegue, suspected of being linked to the fleeing of the two Charlie Hebdo shooters who were subsequently tracked down and also killed during a shoot out.

The 8/1/15 was declared a National day of mourning across France, with a minutes silence observed at midday. During this time, large crowds were seen throughout the city joining hands in a show of unity. 

As a tourist it is a serial feeling being in a city on high alert. The constant sirens and convoys of police heading in unknown directions to unknown risks made you feel like nothing was certain or safe. We opted for the tourist option off the streets, and took to the Louvre. We saw many artworks that stole my heart but the building is a masterpiece all of its own. 

Oh hey Mona Lisa….Not as small as everyone was raving about

Throughout the Louvre experience we were continually passed by large groups of military and police offices with large firearms and attentive expressions; this in itself made our wanderings feel safer.  Brownie points for the day go to Meaghs for mustering every ounce of energy she could find in her reserves to meander the Louvre for several hours until she had found every one of her “must see” artworks….which seemed to be found at literally every end of the premises!

The following day we decided to escape the city to visit some must see chateaux in the Loire Valley.  One bus, 8 people, 3 castles, rain and the countryside.  We stopped and visited the beautiful Chenonceau Castle, privately owned Chateau de Cheverny and, perhaps most magnificent of them all, the Chateau de Chambord.

CHENONCEAU CASTLE:

Chenonceau Chateau was built over the River Cher in traditional Renaissance style, and is known as the Chateau des Dames (the Ladies’ Castle) because of the influence of the famous women who lived there. Built in 1513 by Catherine Briconnet, embellished by Diance de Poitiers and Catherine de Medicis, and saved from destruction during the Revolution by Madame Dupin.  The views from the long walk drive towards the Chateau don’t do it justice, as you have to walk within or around it to see its extensions over the river.  

CHAMBORD CASTLE:
Considered as the largest and most majestic castle of the Loire valley, Chambord Castle was commissioned as a hunting lodge by François I.  It boasts 365 chimneys, 440 rooms, 14 staircases and 800 turrets and capitals marking the architecture inside and out a sight for any eyes…. unfortunatly trying to capture it in photographs doesn’t express its magnificence . The main attraction remains the intricate “double revolution/vortex” staircase thought to have been designed by Leonardo de Vinci.

CHEVERNY CASTLE:

Cheverny Castle is the private property of the Vibraye family.  Still sporting its family Christmas decorations, the collection of 17th century furnishings were well complimented.   The castle was also used as inspiration for Hergé’s famous Moulinsart castle in the Tintin comics.  My favourite part of this Castle was the dog kennels.  After wandering the gardens we came across them at the same time as a handler was selecting the hounds for the next hunting expedition.  

Christmas themed decoration and LARGE mirrors around each of the castles.

Cheverny Castle….Mirror – CHECK

Chenonceau Chateau – MIrror – CHECK

Chambord Castle….Mirror – CHECK

Back in Paris the next day we walked down La Seine to visit the Eiffel Tower for the second time in my life. The 360 degree view of the city took the fear and apprehention out of the last few days and we all had some laughs as we started to blow away on the top level as we were getting photographs.  Honorable mention goes out to Mum today for braving her fears and facing the wild windy hights of the top level!

Mum all smiles thinking she’s safe on the ground….

Daddy/Daughter Love

Mumsy made it up with only the slightest look of fear in those eyes

Sisters hanging out with the Iron Lady

Daddy/Daughter Love #2

Paris – The city of love even for families….what would I be without THIS influence?!

 Finally to finish I have great memories of Paris to take away this time.  As the conclusion to the three week adventure that was the Bowden Europe Extravaganza I’ll end with some highlights.   We drove through sunshine, rain and snow.  Flew on airplanes, rode train, taxi, boats and buses. We climbed ruined and restored castles, kissed a stone to attain eloquence, stalked the Quiet Man through Cong, almost blew away off the tops of the Cliffs of Mohor, walked with giants along the coast, and poured Guinness in Ireland.  We gained second hand highs, and walked the same floors as Anne Frank in Amsterdam.  We wandered medieval Bruges and almost lost fingers and toes to the cold before finally eating the best fondue EVER.  We ate, danced and giggled with Disney characters whilst sleeping next to the park where dreams come alive, then waking to early ride access, character autographs and unlimited smiles, laughs and exploding hearts for three days! I love my family and I loved the opportunity to share this adventure with them and be able to take such amazing memories away. Thanks again mumsy and daddy, miss you all!!!! Sorry it took so long……. xxxx

3 days of history & canals in Amsterdam & Bruges

European history is something I have been learning about and dabbling in since high school.  For my final years of high school the passion for the past skyrocketed thanks to the encouragement and great teaching of my history teacher. Our focus points were World War One as a whole, and a focus on Germany during the lead up to and including World War Two. Since then, I have wanted to make my way around key battle sites, points of interest and areas effected during this time in history. Books from this time in history dominate my bookshelves and to read lists, and living in London I have recently discovered the treasure trove of information and goodies inside the London Imperial War Museum.

Why is this relevant…..

Continuing the Bowden Family holiday I want to pick up the story after Ireland….I know I skipped forward and already told you the ending, but that was by far the most fun to write about!

After Ireland, we took a quick flight to spend two days in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.  

Meagh driving her giant CLOG

Our experience of the city was ‘diverse’.  Tourists come to Amsterdam for many reasons; the scenery of the canal systems, the legality of drug use and prostitution, the rich history of architecture and people, the history of the many persecuted peoples during World War Two including Anne Franks family and their ‘Hidden Annex’, and of course….the Tulips!

We arrived into Amsterdam as the sun was setting and took a short walk from Central Station down the main strip to check into the Hotel De Gerstekorrel on Dam Straat right off Dam Square.  The first thing I noticed on the walk was the large amount of ‘tourists’ like myself (Amsterdam beanies must make a lot of money!).  Next, I noticed many warning posters all over the streets. Apparently tourists were having a new year that got a little out of hand…sadly due to street dealers dealing bad drugs, there had been several deaths in town and even more hospitalisation cases. The third thing was the smell; with drugs legalized in the country it is hard to walk anywhere without the waft of weed and cigarettes in your face.

With the topography of Amsterdam being FLAT, the city is full of bike, boat and pedestrian transportation.  When locals talk about the canal contents they laugh saying that it has three layers; silt, bikes and water.  For the bikes left ON land, as a pedestrian it’s very important to look both ways before you cross ANY path; road or not. For the ones that break or surface, they can be seen around town in their new form; artwork.

Gazebo, Wheel rim style

After dinner we tried the pedestrian thing and took a stroll down among the ‘Red Light District’. It was still early in the evening so I don’t think it had really ‘kicked off’.  My first impression was that the area was larger than I thought, so many woman working the oldest profession in such a small area! Mum and dad had to explain how the whole thing worked for me but when I got the idea it was particularly amusing watching the types of people making use of closed curtains.

The next day we bought €22 tickets to use the Canal boats to hop on and hop off around the city for 24 hours. The stops were convenient but the sporadic timing of boats made it difficult for us to use it very efficiently.  We used it to see both ‘IAmsterdam’ signs (I didn’t even know there were two), one on the water next to a pirate ship and the other behind the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein.  

Walking through the Rijksmuseum Museumplein on to get to the IAmsterdam sign.

Meagh and I had a climb on the letters, and we all tried for some photos while surrounded by crowds just as eager for a shot as we were.  There is a look out style bridge to take photos from but the platform looked like it could collapse at any moment with the amount of people on it.

We jumped back on the canal boat and cruised around the canals until it was dark.  During the ride Meagh and I had a play around with out cameras seeing what shots we could manage on the move.  As the boat turns corners, you are faced with breathtaking views of endless bridges and walkways surrounded by bikes and people.  

Day two started early waiting in line for the Anne Frank Museum. We got there at 8:30am only 30 minutes before opening, yet there was already a line of about 100 eager tourists in line ahead of us. By the time we were heading in at 9:30am, the crowds were in their hundreds and they would have waited for hours. TIP: Get there early, or head early in the evening as it is open quiet late.

I had no idea what to expect going in.  From the outside the building looks modern and industrial, you have to walk around the corner or cross the canal to get a good view of the outside.  I also didn’t know how much of the original interior would be there. Inside, you climb steep narrow staircases passing through empty rooms with photographs and information on the wall.  The bookshelf that led to the secret annex was still on showcase marking the entry way, and upstairs Anne’s room still held some of her postcard and magazine pictures on the wall.  You will see the sink and toilet still in place, but otherwise the house remains unfurnished or decorated. You can also not go up into the attic of the house where Anne spent so much of her time during their hiding, but they have set up an angled mirror to see in their from the floor below.  For this one family, their attempt to hide, and the story that Anne was able to share through her diary now draws people worldwide to bear testament to the acts of persecution to millions of Jewish people across the world. Inside the museum you can find a book on display with millions of names of the people who were sent to their deaths during the war.  It was opened to the Frank family names, but for each of the other names there is also a story; that for me held the biggest impact during and after my visit.

I held onto these thoughts that afternoon as we boarded a train towards Bruges.  As the train sped through the countryside, all I could image were tanks, soldiers, blood and death.  The weather turned gloomy and again I saw soldiers, men and boys trampling through mud, snow, forests and open fields, as they carried hopes and dreams that would never be fulfilled. The same for the thousands sent by train either straight to their deaths in the gas chambers or to work and starve to death.  I found little comfort in the knowledge that many survived until their liberation, as Otto Frank did.

We had to change trains in Antwerp; the home of DIAMONDS….mum had better self-control than I thought she would and didn’t make a single purchase in our half hour stroll.  The station was huge and decorated with gold trimming, high roof line with a variety of window panels shapes, sizes and colours.  There is a large staircase that makes you feel like you are in a castle, but also a large wooly mammoth at the other end that feels like you have walked into the ice age as you cross the station.

On our arrival to Bruges we had a look at catching a bus… instead we went for the stress free option of a taxi instead. Just as we were pulling up to the hotel, Meagh realised her leather glove was not in the taxi, so our overly stinky driver pulled a u-turn and took us back to retrieve the slightly squished glove.  We were staying a 5-10 minute walk from the main touristy areas at the Karos Hotel.  Upon check out we found out our room was so amazing because we had been unknowingly upgraded to the ‘Royal Suite’.  Located in the attic, it was a lavish and spacious room  with king bed and two singles, a large open bathroom area with twin golden sinks, and a large couch living area to relax and watch subtitles movies.  This was admittedly the best accommodation experience of this trip. When we all walked into the room the first time we made a collective noise of awe and excitement at the space.

We had the whole next day to tour the city of Bruges.  We focused on checking out the architecture, not as many buildings were slanting and looking perilously close to tumbling into the canal as the ones in Amsterdam.  I loved the Steepled gable roof lines and all the colours and diverse added features to each building.  The weather was bitterly cold being January and the Christmas markets were all being packed away in the main square, so we had to find small cafes to stop in for hot chocolates and warm our toes throughout the day.

As it was Winter season the canal boats were all tucked away for maintainance or a holiday….so much of the water traffic was beauties like this guy below.

Bruges boast the HISTORIUM, in the centre of the city Markt.  “A sensory expedition (sounds, sights, smells, touches and tastes) back in time that brings Bruges medieval past to life”.  Inside we had the whole tour to ourselves and were free to roam and explore at our own pace.  The end of the tour is a local brewery cafe where you can quench your thirst, or head up to the top floor for some of the best around the Markt.

Our one and only dinner in the city was at a small lovely fondue restaurant just behind the main market place. Number one tip from both the taxi driver and the hotel man – “Don’t eat in the main areas, go one street back for better and cheaper food”. So one street back and I was faced with a mouth watering, ‘dancing in my seat it was so good’, cheese fondue with pancetta and salad.  Bursting to the brim we rolled back to our royal suite and crashed for the night, ready to take on your next destination in the morning.

Paris here we come………

Disneyland Paris 2015 – The happiest place on Earth for any age

January 11th 2015 will go down in history as one of the greatest days of my life.

Not only did I wake up and get to eat ice cream for breakfast, but I ended up in one of the happiest places on Earth surrounded by my family and childhood heroes.

I grew up with Disney, my first trip to Disneyland and Disney World were when I was 7. This was a massive deal heading all the way there from Australia at the time, especially as my parents took all three kids. My sister, parents and I were having a discussion about how they managed to haul us around, buy us God only knew how many souvenirs and then manage to get it all back home with all of us in one piece. I’m talking multiple theme parks, hotels half an hour away, full days, flights home with the three kids still in tow, one metre long Shamu Killer whales, golf clubs for me, and endless stuffed toys for each of us. You must be thinking we were the most spoilt kids on the planet….we sure did feel like it. I’m sure my parents assumed it was our one big trip that we were going to be able to have growing up and we may as well go all out. Little did they know we would be there five years later all together again doing the exact same thing but with my cousins. Over the years my sister and I have made our way back to these magical lands on several occasions. It steals a part of you that is always calling you back. We have been with and introduced new and old friends, and every trip has been a rush of emotions and adrenalin. It’s always nice to return home.

Disneyland Hotel – Our digs for a few nights

Personalised welcome message in the room

Today was no exception-20 years after our first family trip to Disney, my parents have brought my sister and I back! This time, we are doing it in style, staying inside Disneyland Paris at the Disneyland Hotel. As if a zero minute walk wasn’t good enough for us, mum and dad sneakily upgraded us up to The Castle Club upon arrival. This club included many perks…….. 1. We stayed in the main body of the hotel…..not the wings! So easy access to all restaurants and services, not to mention views overlooking the castle and park. 2. We had our own elevator to take us from next to our room to the park gate entry. 3. Our own dining room for Buffet breakfast with our Disney family – full interaction with the characters. We also used the area for tea at 4pm with sandwiches and cakes to tide us over until buffet dinner with the characters!!!

Coffee break with Dad and Chip

4. VIP fast passes to get us to the front of the lines for all the best rides in the park. No queue, as many times a day as we wanted. This was the cherry on the cake and the reason we managed to jam pack our days with four times as many rides as everyone else. 5. Our own private concierge desk where nothing was ever any hassle for the staff. We aren’t needy or demanding but they were always ready to help and make you feel like your stay was the most important one there. We booked dinners, printed flight boarding passes and booked buses and luggage removal. Other perks of the Disney experience include turn down service with chocolates and large white fluffy robes. We also had Piano players serenading us as we drank all the free coffee and hot chocolate we wanted. We spent two days and two nights    in the parks.  We started the days two hours before the public using our early entry to their full advantage, and going to breakfast when everyone started arriving.

20 years later and we are still trying for that sword!!

With perfect numbers we paired up and VIP fast passed our way across the parks and back again pulling funny and scary faces for the cameras. Mum purchased a Photocard from Disney – you pay €50 and can register an unlimited number of photos to access online and print yourself, including photos from rides and photos taken with the characters. A bargain for our family who love the memories and always looking to ‘capture a moment’.

We just wanted to be Space Rangers….we rode and zapped the Buzz Lightyear ride over 20 times and still never managed it.

Endless moments captured on rides and with the Disney characters

Meagh and I embraced our inner child and bought an autograph book each. We then harassed as many characters as we could find for cuddles, banter, autographs and pictures in that order. Dinner our first night was the best experience. Goofy scared Meagh and then came to sit and play at the dinner table, Donald Duck tried to run away with mum after smootching her, Mickey was a gentleman and kissed your hand before insisted on cuddles, and Tigger stole hats and bounced around the room like a ….Tigger!

Match made in heaven…..

The Mouse who stole my heart

Disneyland Paris holds a ‘Sound, Light and Firework show’ at closing every night. The first night we watched from our ‘Lounge Room’ with the sound projected inside.

Not a bad view from the living room!

The second night we were in the thick of the crowd inside the park trying to navigate photos past children on shoulders and fidgety bodies all around. A spectacular choreographed performance that has every aged person lighting up from the inside out. Some rides to mention that are unique to Disneyland Paris………. Space Mountain Mission 2 ….closed on the Monday for 6 months of renovations….we got to ride it once on the Sunday completely unaware it would be our one and only ride this trip. As sequels go…..number 2 was way better, so I’m trying to imagine it after renovations….hopefully with some extra turbo boosters! My favourite ride remains Big Thunder Mountain. Not the largest of roller coasters but uniquely exciting. An outdoor coaster located on an island, you look at it and wonder where you are missing seeing the bridge to get there….alas there is no bridge! The best time to ride it is at night time, as you fly around the island the views of the rest of the park and castle all lit up add a whole new element to the ride and the park. It’s a feeling hard to describe. Crush Coaster did not have a fast pass line and the lines were always the longest in the park. It was this ride that we abused in the early morning access we were given. Our second morning we rode it three times in a row before the queue became longer than a 15 minute wait. By far my favourite indoor coaster, not just because of the Australian theme of Finding Nemo. The ride has passengers sitting in two directions and throughout the ride it spins and twists like you are really riding in the East Atlantic Current! Lastly I cannot to forget to mention the Hollywood Tower of Terror, a ride with a hight restriction of one metre but takes you to unknown heights in the sky. It is a ride not for the faint of heart, but entertaining for the people that like that stomach in your mouth, feet lifting off the floor kind of feeling. We saw very small children enter the ‘Twilight Zone’ and walk away looking like kings of the world. On the other side we saw grown men bypass the ride after the video introductions and woman tucked into themselves clutching onto their seat buddies while they screamed for God to help them. Oh….the view from the top isn’t bad either!

Dad psyching himself up……

The lady in the back row scared to death while the small ones up front are having the time of their lives!

It really was like no other holiday experience I have ever been on!!! Disneyland Paris gave us one heck of a farewell. As we finished riding the Rockin’ Roller Coaster three times in a row with zero wait time, it was time to head back to the hotel. As we walked to the exit we were faced with a farewell from our Disney family. Everyone turned out, from Mickey and Minnie, Goofy, Pinocchio, Genie, Stitch, Tigger and Woody. It was non stop smiles as my sister and I jumped through the crowd gathering autographs and pictures with the other 5 year olds. The Bowden Family holiday ended at 1pm on the 13th of January. It was a sad and happy day. Happy because Mum and dad are heading to Tokyo, Japan for a day, and Meagh and I have four days in Budapest, Hungary to close out our current trip. Sad because I didn’t know when I was going to see mum again 😦 Meagh and I boarded our Disney shuttle to the airport while the parents had a few more magical hours to get through before their own. Words can’t express how lucky we were on this whole trip. The destinations held unimagined hidden treasures, we struck lucky gold with our accommodation, the weather was amazing – not too cold and we only had a few bits of rain here and there but nothing ever to dampen the mood. Getting time to spend with my parents with no work getting in the way at this age is a rare treat and I tried to soak up every second (even when I was a little Hangry). The trip that mum and dad gave us would never be something I’d be able to do myself. It was magical and exciting and adventurous and thrilling and exhausting and unforgettable…..so THANKYOU, THANKYOU, THANKYOU times infinity! I had the most amazing time with you sharing these adventures. Love you long time xxxxx

The two people that help keep the magic alive in my life. They show me how adventures are lived and experiences are what you make them.

Starting a New Year and eating Italian food into my old age

Last weekend was my 27th birthday. A few years ago 27 seemed old, but each year ‘older’ in life is only bringing me more happiness and excitement. Last year was my ‘Year of Adventures’, and looking back I think I made most days count.

2014: My 26th year…..
– A month of traveling and volunteering in Nepal meeting amazing people, working with kids, trekking the Annapurna’s and paragliding, all whilst pushing my comfort zones.
– 2 weeks tromping through India in a Gecko adventure tour abusing my senses and loving the chaos of the North.
– Skiing for three weeks in Japan with my brother and friends, and then another month just skiing for myself; taking time to find peace in the mountains.
– A few months back home seeing and spending quality time with family and my favourite people; Grace, Calli, Todd and my dogs. A time of self discovery and planning for the coming year.
– Packing up life and making the move to live in London for two years.
– Meeting new people and starting new jobs in a new country.
– A month driving around Canada with the gorgeous Imi and celebrating Gill and Phil’s wedding.
– Just over two months spent with my little sister Meaghan in Europe. Taking planes, trains and automobiles through, over and across, London, Belgium, Germany, Luxembourg, France, and Budapest.
– Three week family vacation with mum, dad and Meaghan around Ireland, Northern Ireland, over to Amsterdam, Bruges, Paris, and an unforgettable three days in Euro Disney.

Things I have learnt about myself:
– I enjoy my own company sometimes more than others around me.
– The few good friends I have in life will never leave me.
– I have more courage to face the unknown than I expected of myself.
– I am always and will always have the need and passion to immerse myself in new places, countries, cultures and experiences….without this goal I feel lost in the world (it’s too big to sit in one place and be content with everyday living).
– Money is essential to do the things I want to do in life, but I don’t live for it.
– Always say yes to new adventures, this has given me memories and experiences I could never have dreamed of.

TURNING 27

My 26th year ended and my 27th started in Rome, Italy with my sister Meagh and new London partner in crime, Elly. It was a whirlwind weekend full of sight-seeing, eating, drinking, many purchases and very painful sore feet. We started our weekend at 4am on Saturday with a taxi ride to Victoria station in London, then hitched the 4:30am train to Gatwick airport followed by a 6:50am plane towards Rome!

We landed in Rome and I was greeted by probably the most handsome man I have ever laid eyes on! We managed the fast Leonardo Express train to Termini after getting hardcore sales pitches to take a shuttle instead. After a little wandering around Termini station with no real idea where our hotel was located, a lovely man took pity on us and figured out some directions for us. The directions given by the hotel were “just steps from Termini station”…..we took many step! Elly organized accommodation at the Hotel Alpi. It was a great night stay; they stored and transported our bags for us, fed us a full buffet breakfast, delivered prosecco to the room and gave us a killer recommendation for a restaurant for dinner. Our room was also lavish, with a bathroom as big as some apartments and two balcony terrace areas with a large opening door surrounded by plants and vines.

Finally organized, we headed for the Colosseum.

10 years ago I didn’t get the chance to go inside, this visit I soaked it all in from every available viewpoint. Structures this size from so far into history amaze me, looking at pictures of what it could have looked like in its prime astounds me….it’s no wonder it draws crowds from around the world. With time constraints I only got the audio guide to walk around with, but I found that with that and eavesdropping other tours I had plenty of information.

 

For lunch we wandered away from tourist areas of the Colosseum towards the Trevi Fountain to find food. We stumbled upon a niknak filled, busy restaurant called Gatto Matto where we tried the house bottled wine and were given complimentary eggplant entrée, breads and shots of lemonchello around our main pasta meals. Everything was delicious and it was the perfect meal to start us off in Rome.

The next part of our day was tackled with full bellies and bleary eyes. Off we went to the disappointment of the Trevi Fountain being empty, boarded up and under renovations….not even the chance of a wish fulfillment with no water! What does any girl do when life lets her down?!…..she goes and eats ice cream/gelato.

Just a little disappointed to arrive to the Trevi Fountain all boarded up

Ahhhh much better!

What’s a girls/birthday weekend without shopping and bubbles!? I spoilt myself over the weekend with a pair of green Italian leather boots, a Swarovski pen and a bottle of Dior perfume. As for the bubbles; shopping and sightseeing is hard work so at the end of our first day we ended up swimmers donned soaking our weary limbs in the bath with prosecco in hand and music blaring as we recapped the day and pondered life. Every meal contained this key ingredient of bubbles or red stuff over the weekend…..when in Rome.

For dinner we went with the hotel recommendation of the restaurant a street behind us which none of us can remember the name of 😦 It appeared to be a family restaurant with friendly staff and the most delicious gnocchi I have ever eaten…literally melted in my mouth! After wine, warm fresh bread, and lemon sorbet and creme brûlée for dessert we were entering a state of delirium, walking out to find the rain coming down we decided to call it a night and make tomorrow memorable.

My birthday started as tradition calls for…..a rumbling thunder storm to wake up to (my favourite weather after sun and snow) and presents in bed! Thanks Elly for my amazing T2 tea, the Sydney Breakfast and the London Breakfast will serve whatever mood I wake up in! Little sis did well with these jackpots….

After the buffet breakfast we dropped our bags and hit the streets with Meagh navigating us and absolutely blinding sunshine and blue skies to brighten our day. We took the Metro (one of two lines in the city) to Spania to see the Spanish steps and had a good 15 minutes of great weather before the raindrops as big as marbles started to fall.

 

 

 

Spanish Steps before the downpour

 

 

 

 

 

The weather passed and we jumped the train to Ottaviano *San Pietro* to change countries and see the sights and sounds of Vatican City. We didn’t go to look inside (Meagh and I had already been inside on other travels and Elly was afraid of instant combustion ALSO the line was massive), we just went for the atmosphere and the chance to see a glimpse of the Pope (we missed him by an hour). Meagh had been twice before and has the tradition of getting rosary beads blessed by the standing Pope and sending a postcard to our Catholic Grandma. Unfortunately being a Sunday the gift store outside was closed, so if you’re not planning on going in, and want to get some memorabilia…. don’t go on a Sunday.

We found lunch at the incredible Hosteria Pizzeria – Cantina & Cucina, near the Navona Piazza. Found in a narrow street, the front is decorated with a bike and plants, inside you see only a few tables but it goes a fair way back to accommodate double what you see. The Faccasia bread and fried zucchini flower couldn’t come fast enough, the pizza topped us up to the brim, and we finished in a blaze of glory with a firework as my birthday candles on our hot chocolate pie (cake).

Navona Piazza

After lunch we had a few hours before we had to train back to fly home, so we wandered around the streets of Rome. We made our way unintentionally to the Pantheon where there was a demonstration in Italian taking place which we couldn’t understand a word of.

Pantheon

Next we stumbled upon the Area Sacra, where you can find Romes population of cats. I love this place; there were less cats this visit but it was good to see that the city has taken the initiative to sterilize and vaccinate the ones there.

Area Sacra

We stumbled over cobble stones and stone paths/roads all day with only a few almost face plants and rolled ankles. The highlight came when I saw the biggest swarm of tiny black birds flying overhead that could have blocked the sun….kind of apocalyptic to think back…so, I stopped to get the girls to look up and see it. Next thing I know Elly is tapping my shoulder eyes all squinted up with a look of shock on her face as she asked me very calmly, “Did I just get shat on?”. All I saw was a big black blob on her eyelid and I lost it, doubled over and desperate to use a bathroom, I laughed with tears in my eyes and a stitch in my side. I did manage to get a tissue and swipe it away, but missed the opportunity to snap a photo sadly.

Sunset over Vatican City

As you leave Termini Station, take a hard pass on the “Happiness Station”. All we wanted was delicious gelato (which we got), but the lady grumbled and slapped her way through our requests and tried to take away my gelato! For a happiness station, the smiles were lacking but it did give us plenty to laugh about on the train ride back.

I left Rome with a bag full of memories and smiles for days to come. I had the most amazing weekend of food, laughs and being a tourist. Thanks to Meaghs and Elly for making it a birthday for the records. 2015 is off to a great start so here’s hoping 27 will bring just as many new memories and experiences as 26.

Playing with reflections and puddles after the rain during sunset.

 

The Land of Luck and Giants: Ireland in One week

The Bowden Family Holiday 2014-2015

Ireland and Northern Ireland

The feeling you get when you are about to set your feet in a new place is always a thrill, but when it’s a new country it turns into a buzz you can feel right down to the bone. Ireland and Northern Ireland are my next countries for the next week. This trip I am joined by not just my sister, but my mum and dad who have come over from Australia. We have 7 days to circumnavigate from Dublin and head anti-clockwise up through Northern Ireland and then along the coast all the way around and back up to Dublin. We have nothing planned firmly except our first night of accommodation and the car which was booked the night before. True Bowden travel style, winging it and hoping we fly free.

The first glimpse I had of Ireland was coming down through the densest fluffiest clouds to see Dublin city lights shining bright. The second memorable sight was the large group of about 10 men standing at the arrivals gate waiting for friends…..each with a fresh pint of Guinness in hand!

We picked up mum and dad who were getting off their third flight for the day. After a flood of hugs and a quick catch up we were on the road towards our first family holiday in 9 years.

Before we could hit said road we needed to pick up our rental car from Sixt. Easy enough until you add some indecisiveness about whether to upgrade car type and then mix-ups down at the pick-up depot. We drove away in the third car we were offered after we changed our satellite navigation system because the one we were given started speaking to us in Italian.

Mum doing a great job navigating because our GPS was crap

Our first nights accommodation was in a large family room in a hotel in central Dublin.  When we arrived their was a mix up with the booking….apparently we didn’t have one! After some back and forth they gave us a room and took our money. We rounded off our first night with a Tesco tapas style feast and Christmas time again! Thanks to Nan and Pop, Uncle Brett, and Auntie Robin for your thoughtful gifts…..AND Santa, for finally finding us!

Day Two: We decided, because we were flying out of Dublin we would come back and do our tourist stops at the end so we could get on the road faster. Today we would drive up to Northern Ireland with a stop off at Newgrange. This is a 5000 year old tomb/stone circle/large mound that holds a small burial/tomb-chamber at its centre. We took a tour out there and made friends with the bus driver who was the friendliest old lady….on that note, everyone who was Irish was super friendly. Newgrange is an interesting location with very little is known about why it was built. The only fact that they feel they are sure of is the connection with the sun cycle. There are two other large landmarks similar in the area, but they were closed for the Winter unfortunately.  The spot is an interesting place surrounded by mystery, but controversially the exterior has been completely rebuilt with stones found in its surrounding.

Spirals and swirls have been carved into the rock. This stone was the entry stone to the inside chamber.

Reproduced image of the sunrise during Winter Solstice. Entering the tomb you don’t realise you are walking uphill, making the end of the chamber parallel to the box opening at the top of the tomb entry.

We continued our drive up to Northern Irelands capital, Belfast where we headed straight for the Titanic Quarter. It was here that Harland and Wolff built and launched the infamous RMS Titanic. Today the museum is a must see for anyone interested in large boats, the history of Ireland at this time, or just history in general. The museum is spread over seven floors with plenty of things to touch, engage with and read (don’t worry there is an audio guide that tells you everything too), and it even has its own ride!

We were beat by the time we had finished but still had to find accommodation. Interesting fact: our English phones (with Giffgaff) worked in Northern Ireland but not Ireland. So, we were able to go online and find beds for the night. We ended up in a fully decked out two bedroom apartment with a massive living and kitchen area for €50! Great price and location close to everything important, highly recommend the Titanic Apartments Belfast.

Day Three was a massive day. We started in Belfast then headed up along the Wild Atlantic Way and back down to Londonderry/Derry. Today was our most planned day and I made sure we knew where we were going and directions to each place, so it all worked out really well (even with the icy roads and paths literally trying to pull us down!)

Belfast has a lot of history and in our rush we only touched on it. This morning we visited the statue for C.S. Lewis, author of the Narnia series. Here I found out the deep seeded connection to religion that these books hold…. When told this, the books take on a whole new level of meaning and I’m saddened to realise I never drew the connections myself.

We headed back to the Titanic shipping docks where we took a moment to visit the monument. On this ground where the titanic was shaped and put together stands the names of all the victims of the well known nautical disaster.

Finally it was time for my most looked forward to destinations of the trip! We drove towards the North along the Wild Atlantic Way, a scenic route that makes you want to stop frequently for photo moments. With my pre work and directions we made it to our first stop: Dark Hedges. Located on a small back country road used for tractors to haul their weekly manure run you find the haunting Bregagh Road. Here stands large trees growing upwards and inwards toward each other to create a tunnel of branches down the road. Surrounded by farmland we arrived after navigating icy roads and squeezing through narrow ‘alleys’ to see the sun start to creep across fields and through the trees.

Next stop up the road you can find: Carrick a Rede. A suspended rope bridge out to an off coast island that was used by fisherman to get to the migrating salmon in the area. Set up high above the water, the wind rips through your hair as you descend the steep 20 or so steps to get to the bridge. For some, the experience of crossing can leave them a little jelly legged looking down through the gaps and watching the water swish far below with the wind threatening to blow them over the rope railing.

View of the bridge across to the island

Celebratory photo after we made it across the bridge

Taking a moment to feel the wind

The Giants Causeway was our next stop. There were moments when I didn’t think I was going to make it out of here alive. The first reason being, I thought the giant would arrive at anytime and think of me as a delicious treat. The second reason, that it was like walking on ice from start to finish. I have lived in ski fields and walked on icy roads and paths many times in life with only a few memorable falls….this was a league of its own, with the wind whipping up the water onto the rocks and freezing it thick and solid. To begin the experience you have to walk downhill to the waterfront = ice road #1 It was a constant search for gravel or grass to avoid butt taps. We watched as people slid by us and others who were tentatively slipping and sliding with limbs flailing everywhere. Along the walk our audio guide gave us a full history, stories and information about this magical part of Northern Ireland and as I listened I was transported in time.  I dreamt of walking with magical creatures and joining them as they carved up the rocky coastline.
We walked out over the Causeway and onto the rocks…Meagh made it over ice-covered rocks all the way out to the point…I think I managed half way before I was sure if I went any further I would break a bone or two. Nature is an amazing force and the different ways the landscape in this area has been carved and cracked and morphed into the many shapes and styles is truly unique. Highlights included Dad taking a giant slip and slide and making an epic save, and the young Canadian who offered to take a photo for us who first held the camera upside down, then took a video, before finally taking our picture.

Audio guide is a must have to get all the best stories and info

Meagh made it out to the point!

Giants BOOT!

We continued with the icy theme along most of the roads towards Londonderry/Derry. We found the Iona B&B for €58 for the night; Five beds, tv, hot water and a 5 minute walk to the yummiest dinner at Fitzroys Bistro. The restaurant was very busy and seemed very popular, but the barman made the half hour wait at the bar entertaining and pleasant after he handed me my first Guinness of the trip. To make it even better we got 30% off (because it was Monday or Tuesdays) and the meals were above average on the delicious scale!

Dads view for most of the Northern Ireland drive

We woke to more food, our free full fried and continental breakfast included in the room rate. We took a drive tour around the streets of Derry, around the Old town wall, up into IRA homeland and onto the memorials and Free Derry area.

“Free Derry Corner” at the corner of Lecky Road and Fahan Street in the Bogside. The slogan was first painted in January 1969 by John Casey.

From Derry we cruised down to Donegal where we found a 15th Century castle that dominates the town centre and was once the home to the leading clans of Ireland, the O’Donnell Chieftains.  In the town centre of Donegal you can also find the cafe Blueberry, where you can enjoy the biggest and most delicious Chocolate pudding of your life!

The Donegal coastline looked amazing in my research and was one of the places I wished we had more time to stop, look around and explore. In passing we drove a small section of the coast around sunset. We stopped to check out the ruin of Leitrim Castle and a quick coastal photos shoot along Donagal Bay during sunset 🙂

Onwards we travelled towards Mum and Meaghs highlight destination for the trip, Cong. The small and charming town is full of little treasures. We went there because the 1950’s film starting John Wayne and Maureen O’hara, The Quiet Man was filmed here. We stayed in a gorgeous B&B called Michaeleens Manor that was completely themed with Quiet Man memorabilia, stories to tell, and they even lent us the DVD to watch! We only stayed here one night but it was the type of town you could implant yourself in and feel welcomed. We finished the day in style with a yummy dinner at the local Ashford Castle restaurant called The Lodge.  The following day we took a walk through church ruins and down to the river, we stood on a bridge and found ourselves in two counties at one time (Cong and Mayo), and we wandered the streets and heard shooting in the forest (not sure if it’s rabbit of duck season?!).

 

The rest of the day was spent searching…..first for The Quiet Man house. Spoiler alert, it has been neglected and left to ruins far out of town and has been since recreated in the town centre. Second was to find the bridge used at the start of the film. SUCCESS! Tucked far away behind “main” roads and a little out of Cong, we found the ‘stone gem’ and the girls were HAPPY.

New Years Eve was spent at Elements B&B just out of Doolin.  We had a meal at the Fitz in town and lived it up in the warmth of our B&B with our complimentary chocolate chip biscotti.  We started 2015 with the BEST fry up I’ve had in a long time and headed off to see what all the hype was about at the Cliffs of Moher.

This would be our first spell of bad weather. After passing the many hills covered in rocks to get to the Moher (I now realise why there are so many walls built of rocks), we were welcomed to the Cliffs by light drizzle and wind that would have destroyed a tumbleweed.  At one stage as we walked it was like walking into a wall… we couldn’t move forward as hard as we pushed, and didn’t even think about leaning anywhere but forwards unless we wanted to be blown onto our butts. On our walk up to the cliff edges the clouds cleared up for enough time to take in the stunning views and take some photos for 10 minutes, after that it closed back in and clouds/fog swallowed the cliffs.

Mum and dad struggling against the wind to get to us from O’Brian Tower

After our windy adventure by the sea we drove through the small town of Adare; another place I would have loved to have stopped to explore with its historical vibe of quaint thatch roof houses. We continued our drive past permanently windswept treelines to Cork.  Here we stayed at an overly priced B&B, Cork-Crawford house where breakfast wasn’t even being served!
We were finally visiting Blarney Castle to kiss the Blarney Stone to acquire some eloquence. We arrived super early to watch as the sun started creeping towards the treelines and mist was rising off the river.  We explored the castles many levels and I was surprised at how sound the structure was.  We each took our turn to sit on the ground, lean backwards with the assistance of a rather grouchy man, to hold onto bars as we slid ourselves down and out to give a piece of stone a smootch…..at least there wasn’t as much spit on it compared to the salt mines of Salzburg we had tried a few years back.  After we all gained eloquence we went out to the grounds to check out the Poison Garden, here you can find many toxic and deadly plants for the witches out there.  Truly a great destination of Ireland.

The many levels of the Castle still standing are astounding!

Next, Kilkenny welcomed us into town with some of the worst main street traffic I have seen and a young boy in wet weathers and bumboots who was sitting atop his mini horse and cart. After our slow drive through town we were finally going over 20km when we decided to head back in and see the Kilkenny Castle. We were greeted with some local…. encouragement after we made a safe turn out into slow oncoming traffic an elderly man (far enough away) honked a few times and shook his fist in an angry manner towards us….needless to say it caused an uproar of laughter that lasted the whole way back into town.

Kilkenny Castle has had many changes to its structure over the years since its first foundations were laid in the 600’s.  It is a beautiful building that we were unable to explore the inside of but were able to watch a video of its history. I am one for wrecks and ruins when it comes to the authenticity of castles and was a little disappointed to know that so much had been altered to the inside and out to make it look the way it does today.

Kilkenny Castle

From Kilkenny we made our final drive back to Dublin to round out the trip.  The Travel Lodge housed us for the night and had an excellent front of house service, but it was the Green Eggs breakfast that did the trick.  Pub meals are always unique when traveling, and I really enjoyed the ones we stopped in across Ireland. It was Sheenans in Dublin that was number one with the smashing Guinness Pie that was served up for me!

For our last day we took a tour of the Guinness Storehouse. Here we learnt all about the history of the delicious drink and the brewing process. The video of how men used to hand-make the wooden barrels was my second favourite part of the day.  The first was getting to pour my own Guinness INSIDE the Guinness factory.

 

Our perfectly poured Guinness. Poor form by the rest of my family….mine is on the right…..

One of the Guinness Classes of 03/01/2015

Last Note: Reading previous reviews about driving in Ireland, they made it sound like a nightmare that would take twice as long as we managed our drives. Dad did an amazing job navigating the small narrow country roads and the icy and wet coastal roads. If you are used to driving in all weather conditions, don’t be frightened of driving Ireland in Winter. Saying that, we do have a reputation of bringing good weather wherever we travel and only managed one day of rain in the week (and that was our driving day).

Top quotes of the week:
Me: “I want an Irish tea please”
Mum: “I had Irish tea this morning …. It was tea and I’m in Ireland”

Me: “That’s a big cow!”
Dad: “He’s UDDERly huge!”

We returned out little driving wagon and had no problems checking in and boarding our next flight with Aer Lingus. Next destination on the Bowden Trip: The land of canals, bikes, and windmills….Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

The Full Circle: 4 European Countries & 14 Christmas Markets in 1 Week

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Today I reaffirmed that ‘City’ driving is not for me!

It was another three countries in one day kinda drive today. Cheeky Rose, laid out the journey from Strasbourg, France back to Brussels, Belgium and it took us right through the middle of Luxembourg City centre. So we took the opportunity to pop in to the small country and see some sights.

Luxembourg hospitality – Priority parking for females

The Tourist office was closed today, but the parking area we found exited right into a main square. In here we found a large ice rink and food stalls where we got some lunch. Along the side wall was a city map with some touristy places to see marked out. Using the wall map we ended up walking around in large almost coordinated circles. Along our hour and a half stroll we saw amazing displays of architecture, and walked past standing armed guards outside the Palace of the Grand Dukes (Palais Grand-Ducal). . We visited the main church called, Notre Dame Cathedrale which held some of the most incredible stained glass windows and stone carvings.

Charlotte Grand Duchess – Luxembourg

Even poles deserve to be kept toasty warm

Palace of the Grand Dukes (Palais Grand-Ducal)

Across the road we navigated through workers dismantling the Christmas markets until we got to the top of the city walls which looked across to the walled in Castle, Chateau de Vianden. Far below was a forest area with paths, bridges, and a wide range of botany; a runner and romantic couples delight.

Chateau de Vianden

The drive to Brussels took another few hours but once we hit the city is was a traffic nightmare. This was the point when I reiterated my hate for city driving and rejoiced in the fact that it would be all finished tomorrow. We managed to find parking in the Manhatten Building a few hundred metres down the road from our accommodation for €15.50 overnight. We were staying at the Max hotel, a shocking self service check in system that wasn’t working but a super clean and comfy bed that gave us a great night sleep. The hotel was on the Main Street and interestingly surrounded by adult stores and high end priced fashion all next to each other.

Entering Brussels

After the hectic entry into Brussels and the overwhelming feeling of being outside my comfort zone I wasn’t feeling the vibes in Strasbourg. After 10 minutes of walking into the main market and tourist area, my mind was 100% changed.

Once again we had no city map. So, we had a quick look online before we left to get a gauge of the direction to head to find the Christmas Markets. The main area wasn’t hard to find though if you followed the steady stream of pedestrians. We found the markets and they were magical! Lights were projected into churches and main buildings to display falling snow, multicoloured bobbles, Santa and his reindeer flying through the sky, and large pictures of Santas head.

Christmas market lights in Brussels

Around the corner was the La Grand-Place, Brussels, where the crowds were so dense you could hardly move or see anything. We were initially attracted into a side street before we found it, by the sound of music. When we got past the crowds we were faced with a light and sound show that lit up the whole square. 360 degrees of buildings and tower spires lit up and changing with the tempo of the music, cheerful and light to mysterious and dark. It was a sight to see and hear and one of those rare moments that you have in life where you stumble upon something you won’t forget in a long time.

La Grand-Place, Brussels

Walked into thousands of people on a fun run through town

It wouldn’t be the M&M Adventure without a food update, and seeing as Belgium was the destination (inside a market), there was no shortage.
Entree consisted of Belgium Chocolates from Pralines Leonida. Looking at the smorgasbord of choices we braved it and walked away victorious in our decisions of Grenache and a milk nut nougat. For mains, a potato, cheese and basil concoction that delighted the tastebuds. As for dessert, how could we walk past some Belgium Waffles! Nutella, strawberries, and cream, to be eaten with miniature flimsy trident forks that only added to the challenge!

Just a little excited to eat some Belgium Chocolates 

Drive out of central Brussels to Cheloroi airport was stressful to say the least….Rose was amazing but it really turned into a city driving nightmare. And I had no idea which roads I could turn down and where to do it. But we made it! We managed to return our car early with a full tank of petrol. It was hit and miss on where to find petrol close by, and before our petrol range was exhausted. We found an overly priced station next to the airport that you had to prepay before filling….tourist that I am thought the pump was just broken…. After some confusion on where to leave the rental car we finally parked up, said goodbye and returned the keys. Teddy and Rose were brilliant travel companions and made our journey stress free and far simpler than I could ever imagined it to be.

We made it into the departure lounge several hours before check in opened and as I sat to write this the snow finally started to fall and settle outside. I was excited to see snow again, but equally excited we arrived early and I wasn’t driving in it! While we waited we filled our bellies with delicious gourmet paninis, cheese bread sticks and hot chocolate from Paul’s Cafe for €10 each, and were kept entertained by the steady flow of excited children riding the helicopter ride in front of us, which sadly never worked.

Check in time finally came around and Ryanair lets you take two carry on bags on flight!! 🙂 Though our spirits were a little dampened when we realised our flight to Dublin was delayed by several hours with no explanation from Ryanair. We finally managed to get on a plane 3 hrs after schedualed gate closure and then after some thorough de-icing took off about an hour after that. The pilot on board made the whole experience more enjoyable by providing an explanation and a heartfelt apology mixed in with the fact that the delay was due to the plane being held up two stops previously…..the whole time we just assumed it was the snow.

The Final Transport Wrap Up

Cost of VW Golf Diesel car hire for 7 days from Budget: €285

Brussels to Cologne – 211km and €10 parking

Cologne to Nuremberg – 422km and €10 parking under hotel

Nuremberg to Strasbourg 335km, €16 parking and €45 petrol
Tolls booths along the drive were found 100km out of Strasbourg to pay €8.60 and a further 60km paying €4.40.

For our Parking in Brussels we paid €15.50 for central city underground.

Final fuel fill up €55

After Seven days we had driven close to 1500km with two tanks of fuel through Four countries; Belgium, Germany, France and Luxembourg. We had visited more than 14 Christmas Markets and eaten as many local dishes as we could fit in….an amazing and unforgettable Christmas week with my baby sister.

Teddy and Rose – The Ultimate Driving Team!!!

Parlé vous Franćais? Christmas (Noél) in France

We started our drive from Nuremberg, Germany to Strasbourg, France a little later than we would have liked. The drive was fairly uneventful except for the moment we saw a man riding his horse over an overpass bridge. Not something I would see everyday, so it really entertained me. Freeway driving is straight and fast but we had the occasional castle to see in the distance and plenty of options to turn off if we had the time.

We stayed out of central city Strasbourg. Our hotel; The Kyriad, was just 10 steps from the main transport tram Line B which took us to the doorstep of the many Christmas markets scattered around Strasbourg. For €6, both of us had unlimited transport for the next 24 hrs of sightseeing.

Our Christmas Eve feast was a little far South of our traditional feast. No baked ham or roasts, no salad or veg platters, and definitely no festive spirit. Instead, we took the tram into town at 6pm to check out the markets, only for me to open the market guide and read they closed at 6. Then when we arrived, we read in French that the last trams out of the city back to the hotel left at 7….so it was a brisk walk around and more of a test to see if we could use the transport system than any actual sightseeing. For our dinner feast, we had picked up a giant loaf of bread with salami, cheese and mayo from Aldi that morning, and that served as lunch and dinner with everything closing down for Christmas. We managed to build ourselves a mini Christmas tree using a kettle and other items to put the very few presents we had for each other underneath. It really was a sad affair, but still more than I experienced in Nepal last year.

One of my favourite parts about walking around this city was that every alley/narrow road presented a new hidden treasure. On our mini walk the first night we got off the tram knowing that there were supposed to be markets in the area but otherwise didn’t really have a clue what was around us. As we walked around the corner from the station we were faced with the focus point of the markets, the 30 metre tall real Christmas tree.

After we took this sight in we, walked around the same direction the crowd was headed. Just around the corner I turned to the left off the Main Street and was faced with this beauty.

The Cathedrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg

Throughout the next day I walked past this same street again and ended up inside the cathedral, but it was this view point that I loved the most.

Inside this gothic architectural masterpiece stands an Astonomical clock that draws crowds large enough that actually getting to view it can be difficult. But get in early before the quarter, half or full hour and wait for a sight and sounds to remember.

Christmas Day
Most of Strasbourg had shut down for the holidays to celebrate. We decided to wake up, open our presents, and then head into town and walk the streets and sights the didn’t require entry.

We started at the Barrage Vauban. This old bridge is now known as the Tombs and contains statues and pieces of stone carvings that are slowly being put back together and reconstructed to their original shape and form. Located at the edge of La Petite France, you can climb the steps to walk along the top and have an overtop view across Ponts Couverts and La Petite France. From here you can also see the branches of the River L’Ill coming together and a series of open and closed Bridges near and far.

Working on the Perfect Angle……

Walking through La Petite France was beautiful. The streets are narrow enough that car traffic was very rare today which made walking around calming. We walked without a map or clue as to where we were going, so around every corner was a surprise and hidden treasure to be found. This small part of town is full of half timbered housing that make you feel like you are walking through the streets of history. Multi storied houses (some a little crooked), with tessellated windows and moss covered roofs.

Meaghs taking a moonlit stroll around the River L’ill

Walking one of the many bridges in La Petite France, this gem sits in the middle of the River L’Ill

Being Christmas Day, market stall owners were given the option to be open today. Several opened up, but the feeling we had walking through was very different to the other markets of this week.

After several hours of wandering we walked a little out of the main tourist areas (as they were starting to get fairly busy), and went to find some food. We came across a little restaurant on a corner named Flams. As we looked through the window with numb hands, feet and ears, we saw waitresses walking around in t-shirts. If that isn’t a sign to go in and warm up, I didn’t know what was. So inside we went to receive a LAVISH three course meal with champagne, for €17 each. After an egg and bacon salad entree, all you can eat pizza and a blueberry tart for dessert we rolled out with full bellies, warm toes and big smiles thinking that felt more like Christmas.

Meaghs loving Course One of our Christmas Feast!

Strasbourg was a small magical city full of history and character.  It is surrounded by the tranquil setting of Les Berges de L’Ill – The banks of the River L’ Ill. Even with so many things closed for Christmas, we managed to see everything we wanted. It was an easy city to navigate using public transport, and small enough that you don’t feel like you’re ever lost when in the central area. Strasbourg turned out to be one of my favourite places so far.

Sky Street in La Petite France

Challenge: How many Christmas markets can we see in Germany in Four days

The drive from Brussels to Cologne was 211km and using my ‘nerves of steel’ to follow the speed of the traffic, went fairly quickly. We found our Hostel, The Black Sheep Hostel, and managed a cheeky parking space around the corner paying only €10 for 30hrs of parking! After a slow check-in we made our beds up in our 8 bed girls dorm and got ready to hit the town. The hostel was clean and perfectly situated within walking distance from central Cologne and all major tourist spots as well as being on a street with plenty of restaurants, bars and night time spots.

Our first stop was the main Christmas market located at the base of Cologne Cathedral. This huge piece of architecture looms hight up into the sky and makes a perfect backdrop for magical Christmas setting. We wandered the market with the rest of Cologne and many more tourists, all the time aware of the giant spires looming above and the twinkling lights around us.  As it was a frosty night we indulged in a warm fruity style beverage in one of the festive mugs for this market.  Every market we have been to on the trip has its own individual mug for their Gluewhine.  As my luggage will not allow me the luxury of carrying 14 mugs home, a drink out of them and a photo was the closest I will come to keeping them. 

I managed to find one window that hadn’t been sealed off to hang out of and catch this glimpse of the Christmas markets below.

Day Two: Cologne:
Today we did all 7 of Colognes Christmas markets in one day, and had time to climb the steeple of UNESCO World Heritage Site Cologne Cathedral. We started the day by visiting the inside of the Cologne cathedral; as churches go this is magnificent. With its stained glass windows and intricate stone carvings, it is a sight to behold.  The next best thing is the fact that access to climb into its upper body is open to the public.  For three Euro you can climb in a constant right hand turn up the 533 steps up to the 100metre viewing platform for panoramic view of the city and river below.

The view from the top was pretty spectacular, but the building itself had been defaced by graffiti and visitors names plastered onto every surface. It’s sad that we have to brand places we visit in such a permanent way.

SEVEN CHRISTMAS MARKETS OF COLOGNE

1. Christmas Market at the Cathedral

2. Village of St. Nicholas at Rudolfplatz

3. Cologne Old Town “Home of the Elves” – complete with an ice rink around the village square fountain

The Elves having just as much fun prepping for Christmas, taking a much needed break finishing their present quota a little early this year.

4. Market of Angels at Neumarkt – with its sky of star lights and magical wooden stalls

5. Cologne Harbour Christmas Market – watch as a pirate takes on children in sword fights around the giant pirate ship, views of the Reine and access to the Lindt Chocolate factory and cafe

6. Christmas Avenue at SchaafenstraBe

7. Christmas Market at the Stadtgarten – the locals market, full of food and enough Gluehwein to sink a ship.

Day Three: Cologne –> Frankfurt –> Nuremberg
We took an unexpected stopover in Frankfurt today. As Rose, our navigation system laid out our route to Nuremberg we noticed how close we were going to the major city so decided to pop in and see if we could stumble upon their Christmas markets and check out what the city had to offer. Rose managed to take us all the way to the market entry without blinking an eye. So we found a park a few streets back and wandered around for an hour before hitting the road again. The feel of the market was rustic and family orientated with its large wooden booths and double decker merry-go-round.

A little girl admiring the Nativity as the crowds thinned in a rare moment.

THE DRIVE

Along the drive there are so many little villages that have amazing castles, forts, churches and large buildings I can only imagine the purpose.  None the less they were great to keep my mind in the here and now while driving.

Day Three & Four: Nuremberg

After another simple check in at the B&B hotel we got our parking sorted for 5 Euro a night in their underground carpark.  The city at first glance was historically breathtaking. I love history and this town had it all. Right across for our hotel was the City walls that surround the Old Town of Nuremberg. Again we were walking distance to all the main things we wanted to see centrally – Markets, Old Town and Hangmans Bridge.  Tonight we just took a walk around to get a short taste of the city and the markets as they were closing early.

We spent the first three hours of our second day listening to our audio guides and watching every video inside the Nazi Documentation Centre. Set up inside the planned to be Nazi Congressional Hall is a visual history of the rise, domination and fall of the Nazi Party.
Afterwards we made our way around some of the old Nazi Rally Grounds.  The area, larger than all of old town was used to bring together hundreds of thousands of Nazi socialists and military personal for a week long display of ‘nationalistic and militaristic extravaganzas’.  We spent majority of our time at what is left of Zeppelin Field. Later known in history as the destination of the blowing up of the Swastika when US troops liberated Nuremberg.

Watch as the USA troops blow up the Swastika atop Zeppelin Field

A video to show then and now perspectives of the rally grounds used throughout Nuremberg, Germany

Zeppelin Field Grandstand – The middle of the middle is the balcony where Hitler addressed hundreds of thousands of military and Nazi supporters.

Inside the Nazi Documentation Centre – Tribute to the ones lost in Concentration/Labour camps around Europe.

Records of the Nuremberg Major War Criminals Trials.

The rest of that afternoon and night was time for some lighthearted Christmas Cheer in the giant markets scattered around major tourism attractions of Nuremberg Old Town like the Beautiful Fountain and Church of Our lady, and walking up to the Imperial Castle of Nuremberg to take a birds-eye view of the city lights.

Schönen Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) and Church of Our Lady – Main market square

Hanging out on the bridge with Christmas Tree backgrounds.

Nuremberg Old Town style houses.

Nuremberg Christmas Market Mug was one of my Favourites.

As we walked the path towards the Imperial Palace, the road/pathway was lined with hundred of people bearing lit candles all the way from central market to the Palace.  Once we managed to get through the crowds and to the top we were greater with a giant lit up christmas tree and a view that went on for miles.

Food consumed inside the markets:

Cologne:
Grilled wheel cheese scraped and spread over baguette and then later over mini baked potatoes
Marinated mushrooms and onions in a garlic sauce
Deep fried potato cakes with apple sauce
Hot chocolate with whipped cream with a Triple chocolate sponge and mousse cake at the Lindt chocolate factory cafe.
Chickpea and sausage dish

Frankfurt AU Main:
Local handcut fries….apparently they are a big deal

Nuremberg:
Bratwurst sausages on a crunchy roll for 3 meals they are just that good!
Local famous Gingerbread known as Lebkuchen
Crepes with Nutella
Boiled lollies to finish us off.

All in all, we experienced three German cities, 14 Christmas markets, and an enormous amount of ‘destination appropriate’ food over four days. An epic cruise around Germany and one that gives me cause to want to return.

NEXT STOP…..FRANCE

The ‘How-to not organise a trip’ and still manage three countries in one day

When I was a child my parents took my brother, sister and I on enough flights and holidays that each of us were infected with the Travel Bug. As we got older my siblings and I started taking our own adventures and travelling the world independently of the family. This year I have had the pleasure of trips with both siblings which brings back amazing family memories but has also been a chance to spend that extra special time together that’s become so rare.

The start of 2014 I got to slay fresh powder in Japan for 20 days with my older brother. This week I started an epic month long trip around Europe with my little sister beginning with three countries in one day. Then on the 27th of December we will be joined by our parents until mid January.

Because we are travelling with our parents the planning for this trip has been very relaxed! Not because they are planning everything….but because there is no plan. We know a few key countries, cities and places we want to see and we will be renting cars most of the trip so this month has become all about freedom of choice and keeping our plans open.

I started school holidays Friday, and Meaghs and I have 7 days before mum and dad arrive. This part of the trip took us a while to organize and book for several reasons:
1. We knew what we wanted to do (Christmas Markets), we just didn’t know where…so we looked up top Ten Christmas Markets in Europe. We knuckled it down to four out of the ten we thought we could travel between over the week.
2. Open dates of said markets varied, which meant we might have to zigzag, so transport became an issue.
3. Transport…..it is so expensive to fly or train between the areas we wanted to go so we had to look at other options….we picked a car, our own little Beasty that would hopefully see us through some interesting and fun filled days. Again, freedom to stop and see all the little roadside treasures that came our way. Only downside….my driving ability along unknown roads, in new countries, and driving on the opposite side of the road in Winter freaks us both out a little.
4. Too many options and my indecisiveness….when faced with multiple options it takes my brain a while to filter through what I think will be best. Once we had decided on cities, the options for accommodation were huge. I’m ashamed to say we looked for 8 hours one day and only booked a small fraction of the trip and we only booked our car rental the day before we left.

But we did it! We booked accommodation, cars, and organized timing to make sure we made it to each market we wanted. This week we will visit Belgium, Germany, France and Luxembourg before we fly to Ireland to meet our parents.

We are off to a great start on day one….five trains, one plane and a million steps between. With an early start, the first hour of travel was smooth sailing. I made a quick check with the ‘assistance’ man at Victoria station to check when the next Gatwick train was leaving to be told if we ‘scooted over, the next one leaves in two minutes’ as he pointed to the Gatwick express. So we scooted and as we approached we heard…. “Next express cancelled, all passenger to platform 19 for the train departing in one minute”…..instead of scooting we ended up running and made it on just as the doors were closing. At the airport Easyjet cap for carry on luggage is one bag only. So after some reshuffling and a walk to our gate (which felt like it was all the way back in London), we looked at a board and realized our gate was closing in 10 minutes. With no idea how much further we had to go we went for another little jog and made it with a few minutes to spare. The flight to Brussels was over just after we finished our sandwiches but the Zigzag runways and flight paths made us feel like we were in a washing machine.

Upon arrival into Brussels Airport we found our Car rental company; Budget, we were going to get a Reno and have to pay €120 for a sat nav until the point where we were highlighting all the documents and they tried to give us a manual instead of the automatic we paid for. We drove away in a new VW Golf with an inbuilt sat nav for FREE! Our little beastie has been named Theodore…Teddy for short, and our sat nav who we have already thanked countless times is called Rose. The driving wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be, I think because the roads where separated into highway straight away AND the last roads I drove on where on the opposite side also.

First stop Cologne, Germany!

When the Girls join together to play!

Calli came to London!!! What happens when two best friends are reunited in a different country? One surprises the other at the airport, and then they laugh, eat, and drink to their hearts content while they explore new places together.

After the obligatory ‘Welcome Tour’ to make her and her BF Tom feel like they were in London (both have been her multiple times so we moved pretty quickly), they left me for a week on their own adventure.

On their return Calli and I went on a two-day adventure of ‘firsts’ (for me). It would be my first mini escape from London via train, my first trip out of London with Calli and my first English League Football game.

Before we could jump Into all these firsts, we grabbed train snacks from Euston station M&S (Marks and Spencers) which seemed to hold as many people as the station itself.  As we raced to the platform, Calli handed me a “deck of cards” as my tickets. Three tickets for one train ride seemed a little excessive, and we had four trains for this trip! We caught a Virgin Train from Euston to Crew and then a London Midlands train from Crewe to Liverpool. With smooth sailing we even had time for hot chocolates in Crew to boost the blood flow as the temperatures dropped.

We had a slow check in we settled into our private room at Hatters Hostel and after putting on many warm layers (making us look like marshmallows) we headed for a stroll in the rain around central Liverpool. We went to dinner in an American style restaurant called ‘Yardbird’ where I ate one of the best fried chicken burgers known to mankind!!! 

Now, to the main purpose of the trip; Football. Liverpool vs Swansea, not a huge game, but memorable non the less. Liverpool came back and fought hard for the win. My favourite part was the roar of the crowd with the winning goal….it felt like it went on forever and you couldn’t help being caught up in the excitement and roaring along with everyone else!

My second favourite was the father/son commentators sitting behind us. The banter and quick-witted comments towards player dives and referee calls made for non stop laughter.  The crowds leaving any major sporting event are always large, so we bypassed the taxi stand and took a 45 minute night stroll back into Liverpool.

 

 

 

 

 

The next day we were blessed with sunshine, so we took a stroll into Liverpool centre for breakfast at Moose Coffee for the most delicious eggs benedict. The restaurant/cafe is covered with famous paintings transformed to include a Moose head, and as it was Halloween this is what we walked into…..

We wandered around Liverpool for the next few hours checking out old buildings and hotspots while taking photos.  We strolled down to the water, across to the Beetles Store, saw a yellow submarine available for rent on the water, and pirate ships. We rode on Superlambananas and tried to find as many as we could around the city.  All together it was a chilly but great day discovering a new city.

 

The trip back to London was fairly uneventful except for the mother and two daughters who had a booze-up on the way back.  A few days later I had Calli all to myself for a whole week.  We stayed in her Hotel room in Angel, and the days I didn’t have to work were jam-packed full of fun.

We did more sightseeing….

 

 

 

 

 

 

We went for High Tea at Bea of Bloomsbury (thankyou to the nice man who seated us even though I took us to the wrong location), went shopping all over London, watched football at the local pub, and ate breakfast at Bill’s (if you have never eaten here, treat yourself to a ‘Billy’ worth of tea….it feels bottomless!).

For Halloween we went to witness a record-breaking attempt for the most amount of people to dance Michael Jacksons Thriller in Covent Garden; they didn’t break it, but they looked great!

We had a girls night out in Shoreditch where we found a rooftop Teepee Bar and the indoor Putt Putt course at ‘Swingers’.  In here we played 9 holes of brow sweating mini golf and enjoyed a delectable feast of Mac and Cheese and Deep fried Oreos from  the ‘When Mac met Cheese’ food van.

To top it all off and to end the trip we went on a late night photography mission around London.  Two tripods, two cameras, one person who had an idea of what to do with said camera (Calli), and one novice “having a go” (me).  These were some of my favourite shots from the night.

I LOVED having my girl come to visit, but it is even more exciting to know that she is moving here at the start of February.  47 days and counting….hurry up and get back!!!!

 

 

 

 

The Standard Welcome Tour – London’s Top 5 1st stops to make.

When you move away from family and friends, the best part is having them come and visit….especially when you have moved to the opposite side of the world. Since my move to London, two girlfriends have come to visit and now my little sister is here for the next three months. Wanting them to love the city as much as I do, I took and will take them to all my favourite spots.

When I first arrived, I was taken for a day on the town by an old high school friend. Far from a ‘main streamer’ she introduced me to two of my ‘go-to’ spots. The weeks after, I toured around and explored different areas with an old ski buddy from 2009. With him, I realized that the abundance of tiny hidden hot spots around town are mind blowing. Never will I be able to be bored in this city. So as I delve into the depths of my new city, I take the hotspots and share them with friends, family and you.

So back to visitors….with only a small window of time, it’s hard to justify wasting the time on trying to wander to find these hidden spots. Therefore I have adopted a go to ‘Welcome Tour’ with some of my current favourite places to start everyone off.

Stop 1: The Central London Fly-by Figure 8:
You want them to feel like they have actually just landed in another country, so taking them to see the iconic London landmarks will really start their holiday off with a bang. Even my newly arrived sister who has been to London three times in the past said one of her first stops had to be Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.
– Westminster Underground station: when you walk out the sight of Big Ben looming ahead of you will always make you catch your breath. Stroll across the Thames to catch a glimpse of the London Eye and for killer photography viewpoints.
– Skip next door to Westminster Abbey
– Its a 15 minute walk from there to see if the flag is flying high to mark the Queen being home at Buckingham Palace.
– A casual meander across Green park to Regent Street and then onto Oxford street to realllllly feel like size of population, while you’re there be sure to pop into Hemley’s Toy store for mind blowing sights and interactive fun. Also take a walk around the block into the back lanes of Carnaby Street and grab a bite to eat in Kingly Court.
– Loop back around for Leister Squares Hollywood Glamor and the M&M store, and down into Piccadilly Circus for the Giant Lions and the Blue Rooster.

Stop 2: Walking the Southbank has a little bit of EVERYTHING:
The London Eye, the skatepark, merry-go-rounds, and art galleries. There is always a festival or entertainment event happening; currently you can visit the Christmas Markets where you can undergo a small Christmas tree maze, eat, drink and sit by the fire pits. If you keep walking you will pass Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, ST Katherine’s Dock, pirate territory as you reach the giant Pirate ship next to the Anchor pub, Harry Potter Mellinium Bridge and eventually stumble onto the Tower of London and Tower Bridge.

Stop 3: Camden Lock Markets
Step out of the Underground and you will most likely face DJ Grandpa; a hideous masked man in a portable DJ booth busting none of the music I know, but good for a laugh. Stroll on down the Main Street via street art and sculptures attached to buildings until you reach the markets. You can enter them via Starbucks and cross over the canal bridge to avoid most pedestrian traffic. Here you will be bombarded by food smells from around the world and gorgeous Italian men screaming for you as they hand free food towards you. The markets are full of local art, crafts, photography, and market nik naks. If these alone aren’t good enough, take your food and head to the canal to watch the canal boats change locks, and view the distant pirate castle as the world goes by. Camden gives you more than its face value. If you head further into the markets it turns into the ancient Horse Tunnel Markets full of large horse sculptures, nik naks and antiques. Further in you have clothes, more food, and the magical land of Cyberdog’; one of the craziest stores equipped with all your raving needs, and boasts a set of on stage ‘go-go’ dancers for your entertainment while you shop.

Stop 4: Borough Markets:
Just underneath London Bridge you can find a small heaven devoted to fresh produce and FOOD. The past several months has seen me slowly become obsessed with food, and this place is a winner with all the free samples everywhere! Chocolate, cake, cookies, honey, meats, cheese….you name it! They host cooking classes in the surrounding stores, and festivals are frequently popping up for all occasions. It’s a busy spot, especially for lunch, but be sure to check out ‘The Guilable’ for the biggest and best sausages and gourmet rolls in town!

Stop 5: “Trendy, Trendy, Shoreditch”:
My friends call it the “alternative” part of town, but really it’s just a place you can find ANYTHING you could want or need. Take the time to explore the area and you won’t be disappointed. Three markets, food truck festivals, street art everywhere and anywhere (a photographers heaven), storage container shopping areas, indoor putt putt warehouses, rooftop teepee bars, and most recently a cereal cafe fully loaded with hundreds of different varieties of cereals from around the world! I have only just started my exploration of this area, but already can’t wait to delve into it deeper.

The road is long….but never lonely

Through my years of stepping my way around the globe with adventures big and small, I have started to be aware of how truly lucky I have been in life. They say when you get away from your norm, you find a new perspective on life. You realize what you want and how to get the most out of the time that you might be allotted here.

One of the most exciting things about being in a new place is the complete sense of anonymity. You don’t know anyone and no one knows you. You can explore as you wish, have conversations with interesting looking people, and get yourself lost in the craziness. Don’t get me wrong, there are times when it gets awfully lonely, but when you flip the coin, the people you see, meet, and get to know along your adventures can end up being the greatest stories you will ever tell.

I have been “on the move” for what feels like a lifetime and during these years have met so many incredible people. I have learnt that in life, people come and go; some briefly, some for a few months or years, and some that just won’t leave you alone. Most of these people will fit loosely into one of the following groups for me:

– The One Timer: I met you once while I was undertaking one of my adventures. I could have been a passing comment or conversation, a one hour class, one day, a week or even a month. You made the experience more memorable and when I think back to it, your smiley face pops up and I wonder what you’re up to. We probably don’t keep in contact, but we stalk each other on Facebook or Instagram occasionally and will always have “Paris”.

– The Seasoneer: We undertook a season of snow or sun together. We either lived or worked together for months at a time. On our days off we were curled up in joint sympathy or out and about making memories doing what we loved most. Our nights were spent creating havoc and generally being pests around town. You kept me sane during days of hangovers and screaming three year olds with jokes and cake. We stay close via email and messages but generally live on opposite sides of the world and rarely if ever get to actually hang out. If we lived near each other we would pick back up where we left off and be best friends. You contributed to some of my best years in life.

– High School Bestie: We met in high school and weren’t even in the same group but when school ended and I was coming and going, you were the person who I clicked with most. Staying in contact was always easy and when we see each other it’s like we never skipped a beat. Near or far they will always be there.

– The Life Longer: We all have one. That person that the universe found for us to make us feel like we would always be apart of something special. We have actually never lived near each other and met by chance. But from the minute we met there was no turning back. You became a member of my family and whenever I’m home or something big happens you’re the first person I see or call.

Moving to a new city has been the biggest and longest solo mission of my life so far. Luckily I landed on my feet with a couple from two of my seasons working in Canada. They have been kind enough to welcome me into their lives, their home and their friendship circle, which has made the transition into London life as smooth as butter! These seasoneers have turned into lifelong friends for sure.

I have always consider myself to be a person who makes friends fairly easily in life. I pick someone that I like and that’s that. Trying to get out and meet NEW people on my own the last few months has been a little challenging and I was starting to get a little disheartened …. Smiling at people on the train just gets me sidelong looks or the quick turn away! But as I start to find my own feet, I am broadening my friendship circle slowly. Agency parties, regular days in schools, rock climbing and even being asked to join a touch football team. I have been invited to a wedding and people from my past are popping back into life unexpectedly and all of at once filling in my days with non stop action. Turns out I just had to have a little patience.

Throughout life people come in and out, sometimes just the one time, some for a short while, others unexpectedly making a re-entrance, and some that never truly leave you. To all of the old and new friends that make my life fuller for even one day; I’m glad I met you and had/have you in my life.

We only get one chance, before we all head back into the great oblivion……be yourself and make the most of what you have … Dive head first and tackle what you want most in life…..even if it’s only a tiny booty wiggle in the middle of an underground train trip as you’re listening to your JAM!

As a little side note: It is my sisters 22nd Birthday today and being away from her on special days like today suck…..but the upside is she’s joining me in Europe for three months VERY soon. Happy Birthday little Sis, can’t wait for European Adventures xx

Fernie Fun Finally – The End of 2014 Canadian Adventure

We drove towards Fernie with every intention of leaving after three days to pop up to Banff before flying out of Calgary. Imi had lived in Fernie for five years, so her pull towards the town is stronger than mine (friends still there). But as we got closer, everything inside me screamed happiness. It wasn’t until we actually pulled into Kelly’s driveway that I turned to Imi and calmly informed her that we wouldn’t be making it to Banff this trip (she had been there before so no skin off her nose).

We settled into our den, unpacked the essentials and tested that our fold down bed would support the both of us and we were off. Introductions and reunions were quickly made, and I felt at home as part of the Fernie family once again. Kelly, Hannah, Rob, and Imi would be the key players in helping to make Fernie the best and most action packed part of this Canadian roadtrip.

We got straight into Summer living, heading out to Coal Creek for some rock jumping and sun baking. Rock jumping never seems scary until you’re standing right on the very edge (like many things in life). It was Rob, the husky voiced musician/snowboard instructor from Ireland, that showed us ladies how it was done, smashing out a classy breakaway backflip.

Fernie is Freedom. Freedom to express yourself, freedom in nature, freedom in activities and in lifestyle. It is a place that opens the soul and relaxes you into doing things you have previously told yourself you didn’t want to do or couldn’t do. One example for me is trail riding on a mountain bike. I’m not the most coordinated person on a bike…. I tried it for the first time several years ago in Fernie with an old friend. He took me on a trail far too advanced for both my ability and confidence! As a result of that, for many years the thought of trail riding scared the crap out of me. Back home my brother has started to get more serious about his mountain biking, so took me on some trails around Jindabyne in NSW Snowy Mountains. It was a massive confidence boost and I ended up really loving it. So, seeing as 2014 is all about saying yes to new adventures, and Fernies Summer activity IS mountain biking….I pumped myself up to try it again in Fernie.

We rented some amazing bikes from the guys at Gear Hub and climbed the hills up to Ridgemont. For the next few hours we slogged our way uphill, downhill, back up, down stitch backs, tackling blue runs. I pushed my comfort barriers, sweated like never before, and learnt that turning left is just as hard as Zoolander makes it out to be! I had my first fall of many within minutes of starting downhill. Raised bridge as wide as me….Imi forgot to mention that speed was my friend… I was down…landed in a tree and received a bruise that went from mid thigh up to mid buttocks! Next was a head first dive over the handlebars after hitting a rock …. This one left me with bruises up the arm, a sore wrist, a bent up ring and a hole in my finger. I then managed to wrap my bike around myself and bruised thighs, knees and somehow under my arm! We laughed so loud and so often that people commented upon meeting us further on the trail. It was amazing and I can’t wait to get back on a bike trail again.

These wouldn’t be my only biking injuries for the trip…..
Walking my bike down 2nd Ave with the group, I went to sit on the middle bar when I over balance and fell on top of it in the middle of the pathway. As I landed on the bike, the side of my face landed right into the side of the handle bar….after a quick intake to ask if I still had all my teeth (all good ma), my numb jaw wouldn’t open too far as the swelling started. After a minute the giggles started and turned into hysteric laughter at the stupidness of my actions and unbeleivability of how it actually came about….
And lastly, during an attempted beer pass off while peddling into town, I hit the wrong brake and launched myself over the handle bars landing in the middle of the road about 10 metres away from my bike.  It’s probably safe to say I’m not a bike person but I wouldn’t have changed any of the spills. But I will be adding the last two to my list of “what the..?!” moments.

Our next adventure was a drive out to Island Lake. My first trip out there in the Summer and it was breathtaking. We took our time and cruised around the Lake Trail . The Island is home to three moose, a mumma and her two little ones….was a little sad they didn’t want to grace us with their presence. The pictures only give you an idea of how pretty it is out there. As you sit on the lake, you look up into the mountain and see the areas used for cat skiing…..what I wouldn’t do to get back there and ski those bowls!

In Fernie, there is never a dull moment, we filled the inbetween time with:
– Late night bonfires with guitar sing alongs and s’mores.
– Late night bike rides through town doing Supermans and wheelies
– Trips to the Brickhouse, Northern and The Royal for beverages and pool.
– A wobbly, group bike ride out to Alpine Trails to take a late night Hot Tub under the stars with drinks and music at Kelly’s friends house.
– Hang over mornings at Big Bang Bagel with Avo Launchers and hydrating smoothies
– A trip to the Art gallery on 2nd Ave to find a wedding present (photograph) for our friends to remind them of where they met and where their relationship took off.
– Group family dinner in Yamagoya Sushi
– Rainy afternoon movies
– Lounge room pillow and doona forts
– Mac and cheese night
– Late night games of sardines (bug kids hide and seek)

– Walks out to the old abandoned barn in town
– Gourmet picnics in the park

….. Just to name a few things

Travelling and seeing new places is nothing without the people you meet and the experiences you have. Kelly introduced us to so many people in town that wanted to include us.

One such person was a guy that had every toy imaginable! 4×4, Boats, motorbikes, mountain bikes, snow mobiles, and quad bikes just to name a few. He took us 4x4ing and then let Imi and I drive his Quad bike up to and back from the “Microwave towers”. Thumb full throttle, puddles splashing us our legs, we charged along the trail. At the top of the mountain we lit a fire, drank peppermint hot chocolate, drove golf balls off the lookout, and embraced the scenery with our whole bodies.

Our next new friend owned a wakeboarding boat. She took us out to Lake Koocanusa for an afternoon of water adventures. Water skiing for Imi and wake boarding for me. Kelly drove like a rockstar, and Rob looked like he was snowboarding on water. Lucy took the biggest wipeout of the day and Karina was clearing the wakes and making us all look like amateurs. We stayed in the lake for several hours, five of us taking turns in the water, until the light started to fade and a giant storm looked imminent.

Our last day was a slow start….After a Big Bang refuel, Kelly decided that taking a swim in the river would be a fabulous idea (in reality it was only ever going to be the boys that would take the plunge). Kelly managed a splashing, while Hannah and Imi built up a small campfire on the side of the river. A cold, cloudy, and hungover fall day spent by a river came with Hannah’s camping pots, and a tin of Tim Hortons Hot Chocolate. Just as the first pot was boiled, Rob managed to split the whole pot with his Irish luck, the second pot was filled with leaves after Kelly tried to add a helping hand….we settled for the third luke warm pot of water after the wood burnt through and we lost a third of the pot to the fire! We really had done this before, I swear!

It was sad saying goodbye to Fernie again, I feel apart of me will always long to set my feet there for at least a few years. I said my goodbyes and we left town on a cloudy, dreary day to match my somber mood; starting our drive out to Calgary.

Imi took the last leg of driving, having done the drive many times before. The must stop off on the one road out to Calgary is the Cinnamon Bear for their Cinnamon buns and hot chocolates! Our accommodation for our last night in Canada was lavish compared to our month of couches, floors, fold out beds, and bunk beds. A fluffy queen bed each which we instantly sprawled out across to all corners like stars. If you are ever looking for a last minute hotel to fly out of Calgary, be sure to hit up the Radisson Hotel & Conference Center Calgary. They have a restaurant and offer a shuttle to the airport. The price was half of places in the area like the Holiday Inns etc.

This marks the end to my 2014 Canadian Roadtrip and my 6th trip to Canada. A month long adventure with amazing people, creating lifelong memories and plenty of new experiences. From weddings and waterfights in Vancouver, Wineries and girlfriends in Kelowna, Comedians in Revelstoke, Art and Hippies in Nelson, to Mountain biking and Irish luck in Fernie.  Thanks to everyone involved, especially my partner in crime and sidekick Miss Imi. Canada you have reignited my love for you and I can’t wait to get back!

Nelson…the land of pirates and signs asking for help “getting home”

We made it into Nelson with our hitch hiker and kitten in toe in the late afternoon. We stayed the one night in town in the cute hostel on Main Street called The Dancing Bear Inn.

I have been to Nelson in the winter time to ski at Whitewater ski resort, but Summer is a whole new city. On one side you have the mountain bike culture, and the other….the fruit pickers and seasonal “hippy” likes passing through.

Always on the lookout for things that are away from the tourist trap we found the perfect afternoon activity. The local art school had an open day for locals to come in and create an Art piece. Create a Mandela on their interpretation of Peace, that would contribute to the community art gallery.

Mexican dinner!!! The server looked at me and actually laughed when I stated my allergies! Capsicum/peppers, chilli and coriander/cilantro. Obviously Mexican is not the best cuisine for me, but when I make it….it’s my favourite thing to eat. We settled in some fish, and cheese tacos for me and the most potent cocktails We’ve ever had!! Triple shots in a tiny glass….apparently, they breed Nelson people to be able to drink and rally like fish! Imi and I ended up in a local bar for pints and trolling the streets playing in the local sculptures. Keeping it classy in Nelson.

We were hoping to make an early hot yoga session next door this morning, however the hangover that joined me when I woke up did nothing to motivate me raising! We went to breakfast instead for eggs beni and stopped in to visit Nelson’s resident Pirate Ship. A few years back it had been sunk during a bad storm, recently it was resurrected through the assistance of the community. The gentleman that lives there is one lucky Pirate!

An awesome warm up to head into the epic finally of our Canadian roadtrip. Off to Fernie, BC next….the town I left part of my heart and soul back in 2012.