European history is something I have been learning about and dabbling in since high school. For my final years of high school the passion for the past skyrocketed thanks to the encouragement and great teaching of my history teacher. Our focus points were World War One as a whole, and a focus on Germany during the lead up to and including World War Two. Since then, I have wanted to make my way around key battle sites, points of interest and areas effected during this time in history. Books from this time in history dominate my bookshelves and to read lists, and living in London I have recently discovered the treasure trove of information and goodies inside the London Imperial War Museum.
Why is this relevant…..
Continuing the Bowden Family holiday I want to pick up the story after Ireland….I know I skipped forward and already told you the ending, but that was by far the most fun to write about!
After Ireland, we took a quick flight to spend two days in Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
Meagh driving her giant CLOG
Our experience of the city was ‘diverse’. Tourists come to Amsterdam for many reasons; the scenery of the canal systems, the legality of drug use and prostitution, the rich history of architecture and people, the history of the many persecuted peoples during World War Two including Anne Franks family and their ‘Hidden Annex’, and of course….the Tulips!
We arrived into Amsterdam as the sun was setting and took a short walk from Central Station down the main strip to check into the Hotel De Gerstekorrel on Dam Straat right off Dam Square. The first thing I noticed on the walk was the large amount of ‘tourists’ like myself (Amsterdam beanies must make a lot of money!). Next, I noticed many warning posters all over the streets. Apparently tourists were having a new year that got a little out of hand…sadly due to street dealers dealing bad drugs, there had been several deaths in town and even more hospitalisation cases. The third thing was the smell; with drugs legalized in the country it is hard to walk anywhere without the waft of weed and cigarettes in your face.
With the topography of Amsterdam being FLAT, the city is full of bike, boat and pedestrian transportation. When locals talk about the canal contents they laugh saying that it has three layers; silt, bikes and water. For the bikes left ON land, as a pedestrian it’s very important to look both ways before you cross ANY path; road or not. For the ones that break or surface, they can be seen around town in their new form; artwork.
Gazebo, Wheel rim style
After dinner we tried the pedestrian thing and took a stroll down among the ‘Red Light District’. It was still early in the evening so I don’t think it had really ‘kicked off’. My first impression was that the area was larger than I thought, so many woman working the oldest profession in such a small area! Mum and dad had to explain how the whole thing worked for me but when I got the idea it was particularly amusing watching the types of people making use of closed curtains.
The next day we bought €22 tickets to use the Canal boats to hop on and hop off around the city for 24 hours. The stops were convenient but the sporadic timing of boats made it difficult for us to use it very efficiently. We used it to see both ‘IAmsterdam’ signs (I didn’t even know there were two), one on the water next to a pirate ship and the other behind the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein.
Walking through the Rijksmuseum Museumplein on to get to the IAmsterdam sign.
Meagh and I had a climb on the letters, and we all tried for some photos while surrounded by crowds just as eager for a shot as we were. There is a look out style bridge to take photos from but the platform looked like it could collapse at any moment with the amount of people on it.
We jumped back on the canal boat and cruised around the canals until it was dark. During the ride Meagh and I had a play around with out cameras seeing what shots we could manage on the move. As the boat turns corners, you are faced with breathtaking views of endless bridges and walkways surrounded by bikes and people.
Day two started early waiting in line for the Anne Frank Museum. We got there at 8:30am only 30 minutes before opening, yet there was already a line of about 100 eager tourists in line ahead of us. By the time we were heading in at 9:30am, the crowds were in their hundreds and they would have waited for hours. TIP: Get there early, or head early in the evening as it is open quiet late.
I had no idea what to expect going in. From the outside the building looks modern and industrial, you have to walk around the corner or cross the canal to get a good view of the outside. I also didn’t know how much of the original interior would be there. Inside, you climb steep narrow staircases passing through empty rooms with photographs and information on the wall. The bookshelf that led to the secret annex was still on showcase marking the entry way, and upstairs Anne’s room still held some of her postcard and magazine pictures on the wall. You will see the sink and toilet still in place, but otherwise the house remains unfurnished or decorated. You can also not go up into the attic of the house where Anne spent so much of her time during their hiding, but they have set up an angled mirror to see in their from the floor below. For this one family, their attempt to hide, and the story that Anne was able to share through her diary now draws people worldwide to bear testament to the acts of persecution to millions of Jewish people across the world. Inside the museum you can find a book on display with millions of names of the people who were sent to their deaths during the war. It was opened to the Frank family names, but for each of the other names there is also a story; that for me held the biggest impact during and after my visit.
I held onto these thoughts that afternoon as we boarded a train towards Bruges. As the train sped through the countryside, all I could image were tanks, soldiers, blood and death. The weather turned gloomy and again I saw soldiers, men and boys trampling through mud, snow, forests and open fields, as they carried hopes and dreams that would never be fulfilled. The same for the thousands sent by train either straight to their deaths in the gas chambers or to work and starve to death. I found little comfort in the knowledge that many survived until their liberation, as Otto Frank did.
We had to change trains in Antwerp; the home of DIAMONDS….mum had better self-control than I thought she would and didn’t make a single purchase in our half hour stroll. The station was huge and decorated with gold trimming, high roof line with a variety of window panels shapes, sizes and colours. There is a large staircase that makes you feel like you are in a castle, but also a large wooly mammoth at the other end that feels like you have walked into the ice age as you cross the station.
On our arrival to Bruges we had a look at catching a bus… instead we went for the stress free option of a taxi instead. Just as we were pulling up to the hotel, Meagh realised her leather glove was not in the taxi, so our overly stinky driver pulled a u-turn and took us back to retrieve the slightly squished glove. We were staying a 5-10 minute walk from the main touristy areas at the Karos Hotel. Upon check out we found out our room was so amazing because we had been unknowingly upgraded to the ‘Royal Suite’. Located in the attic, it was a lavish and spacious room with king bed and two singles, a large open bathroom area with twin golden sinks, and a large couch living area to relax and watch subtitles movies. This was admittedly the best accommodation experience of this trip. When we all walked into the room the first time we made a collective noise of awe and excitement at the space.
We had the whole next day to tour the city of Bruges. We focused on checking out the architecture, not as many buildings were slanting and looking perilously close to tumbling into the canal as the ones in Amsterdam. I loved the Steepled gable roof lines and all the colours and diverse added features to each building. The weather was bitterly cold being January and the Christmas markets were all being packed away in the main square, so we had to find small cafes to stop in for hot chocolates and warm our toes throughout the day.
As it was Winter season the canal boats were all tucked away for maintainance or a holiday….so much of the water traffic was beauties like this guy below.
Bruges boast the HISTORIUM, in the centre of the city Markt. “A sensory expedition (sounds, sights, smells, touches and tastes) back in time that brings Bruges medieval past to life”. Inside we had the whole tour to ourselves and were free to roam and explore at our own pace. The end of the tour is a local brewery cafe where you can quench your thirst, or head up to the top floor for some of the best around the Markt.
Our one and only dinner in the city was at a small lovely fondue restaurant just behind the main market place. Number one tip from both the taxi driver and the hotel man – “Don’t eat in the main areas, go one street back for better and cheaper food”. So one street back and I was faced with a mouth watering, ‘dancing in my seat it was so good’, cheese fondue with pancetta and salad. Bursting to the brim we rolled back to our royal suite and crashed for the night, ready to take on your next destination in the morning.
Paris here we come………
The World Adventures of Melly B 